Corn Snake Care

Corn snakes are native to the US. They make great pets due to the fact that they are easy to care for and are almost always docile and friendly. Tons and tons are captive bred annually, and are justifiably one of the most popular snakes of all time. Corn snakes are relatively small, rarely exceeding five to six feet in length, active feeders, tolerate a wide variety of environmental conditions, come in a dazzling array of color morphs, and are very easy to breed. All of these factors combined make the corn snake an excellent choice for both the beginning and advanced reptile hobbyist.

DON'T FEED WILD ANIMALS TO YOUR SNAKE – THEY CAN CARRY DISEASES THAT COULD BE DEADLY TO YOUR SNAKE

Life Span - Up to 20 years with proper care

Diet - Thawed, appropriate size frozen rodents, warmed to room temperature - learn "how to raise feeder foods"

Feeding - Hatchling corn snakes begin eating pinky mice, and progress up to adult mice once they are mature. A good rule of thumb is to feed the snake a food item that is the same, or close to, the snake's diameter. Feed an item that is too large, and the snake will often regurgitate it. Snakes will also regurgitate if they do not have a warm area or if they are handled too soon after they eat. Corn snakes can be fed once a week. Clean water should be available at all times, corn snakes drink often. Feed most adult snakes every two weeks, or as needed; feed juveniles once a week. Feed in a separate tank so that your snake does not associate your hand or the cage being opened with feeding; or the actidental bit of bedding geting stuck inside the snake causing impaction. Make sure your hand is clean of the smell of rodent!! DO NOT FEED LIVE RODENTS. Live rodents can injure or kill the snake!
(below is a pic of a BP that was kiled by a live rodent)

Housing Size - A baby corn snake can happily live in a ten gallon aquarium or enclosure of similar size. Upon reaching full adult size (about three to four years), a corn snake will require an enclosure with the minimum dimensions of a standard twenty gallon long aquarium. Larger aquariums such as a thirty-gallon breeder or fifty-five gallon tank are also appropriate.

Substrate - Cedar shavings are unacceptable as they cause respiratory problems in snakes Reptile bark can be purchased in pet stores, and is attractive and natural-looking. Butcher paper can be acquired in many places such as home depot or art supply stores. This substrate, while not particularly attractive, allows one to keep the cage very clean by continuously replacing the soiled paper. Paper towels have the same advantages and disadvantages of butcher paper. Astroturf can be used, but it does tend to rot easily if wetted, so it is best to have several pieces cut to fit the cage so you can rotate dirty and clean pieces. 

Habitat - Provide two hide boxes just large enough for your snake to fit inside and a branch or shelf to climb; maintain humidity of 40 to 60%

Temperature -Temperature gradient (85 degrees F. for the warm end and 70 degrees F. for the cool end); recommend radiant heat; use an incandescent light or ceramic heater as primary heat source, use undertank heat as secondary source

Lighting -Snakes need a photoperiod light cycle; provide 8-12 hours of light daily; do not leave white light on at all times; to view snakes at night, use a black or infrared light. In addition to the basking light, a full spectrum reptile UVA/UVB light should be provided. Exposure to UVA/UVB is not necessary for proper calcium metabolism, because corn snakes are nocturnal snakes.

Water - Provide a bowl of chlorine-free water large enough for the snake to soak in. Clean it Daily and in betwean if needed.

Breeding - Corn snakes are one of the easiest snakes to breed in captivity. Consult a breeder or a good corn snake book if and when you are ready to breed your snake. Remember, after the offspring hatch they are an enormous responsibility and if you don't know what you will do with the babies, don't breed the adults. Breeding is not necessary for their health and you don't want to be responsible for the deaths of the babies because you were unprepared to maintain them or otherwise couldn't find a good home for them.

Recommended Supplies:

Habitat with secure lid Substrate Thermometer 2 Hide boxes or driftwood Misting bottle

Water dish Humidity gauge Undertank heat source Book about corn snakes Incandescent basking light or ceramic heater

Normal  Behavior and Interaction As snake gets ready to shed, eyes will turn a milky blue over the course of a few days and body color will start to dull and develop a whitish sheen Appetite may diminish during winter months

Habitat Maintenance Change water daily. Thoroughly clean the tank at least once week: set snake aside in a secure habitat; scrub the tank and furnishings with a 3% bleach solution; rinse thoroughly with water, removing all smell of bleach; dry the tank and furnishings; and add clean substrate

Grooming and Hygiene Corn snakes will regularly shed their skin; ensure humidity of habitat is at appropriate level to allow your snake to shed properly. To facilitate shedding, bathe snake in a large container that allows snake to immerse its entire body.

Always wash your hands before and after touching your snake or habitat contents to help prevent Salmonella and other infectious diseases
 
Signs of a Healthy Pet:

Clear eyes (except when shedding) Clear nose and mouth Body is rounded and full

Active and alert Eats regularly Healthy skin

Common Health Issues and Red Flags:

Wrinkled or rubbed skin Vomiting Discharge in nose or mouth

Lethargy Abnormal feces or urine Decreased appetite

Mites - Although mostly uncommon in a private collection, mites are a possible complication. They will most likely be noticed first around the eyes or the corners of the mouth as little round, black/brown creepy creatures. They can be treated by many commercial products available at a local pet shop or by a veterinary strength solution available from your veterinarian. Be sure to follow the directions on the product. Treatment of mites usually takes close to a month of continuous care as eggs can hatch daily and must be 'taken care of' ASAP. These little bugs have an extraordinary reproductive rate. If you have more than the 1 infested reptile, take extra precautions not to transfer the mites from one to another.

Respiratory Infections - Ribbon snakes are resistant to respiratory infections. However, prolonged exposure to low temperatures, improper humidity and poor cage conditions could result in respiratory complications. Treatment for this problem is usually antibiotics and to raise the ambient temperature of your cage a bit. (The best thing is to avoid low cage temperatures and eliminate the problem before it arises.) The most obvious symptoms are labored breathing and mucus around the mouth or nostrils. If these symptoms are present and persistent the illness is usually well progressed - a veterinarian visit is in order immediately for treatment.

Internal Parasites - Symptoms of internal parasites include weight loss, worms in the stools, runny stools, gaping and listlessness. If you observe a combination of these symptoms you should take your snake to a veterinarian to have a stool sample examined to determine if there are any parasites present and if so, what kind they are. Follow their recommendation for treatment.
For more snake diseases - snake health problems

If you notice any of these signs, please contact your exotic animal veterinarian.

As with all pets in this category, it is important that you find a veterinarian that practices in EXOTICS – this is critical. The typical small animal practitioner may not have sufficient knowledge in this area.

Even this guide is general in nature and should not be used to diagnose your pet.

Below is a pinkie mouse